aggression managment

Therapy continued with a couple of days of climbing frozen waterfalls and melt freeze with Chris. Having substantial avalanche hazard in the alpine, we decided to head over the divide to Bozeman and into Hyalite canyon for some safe travel and the abundance of formed ice lines. We got to climb classic routes in interesting condition with the benefit of "camping" in hotels in town complete with hot food and good whiskey. Certainly better than getting poked in the eye with a stick.


my turn on "Airborn Ranger"



Chris topping out and then starting the last pitch of "AR"



Chris navigates the right side of "the Good Looking One"


"Good Looking One proper"


"Bulldog World"

local relief

With temps in the single digits at night, snow and ice have been getting progressively better and a fulfilling way to distract from no flying. Chris Gibisch and I got to take a break from work and spent a couple of days in the mountains making turns and swinging tools. The back country skiing has been fantastic in the Bitterroot so on day 1, we met up with a friend and went up behind the house, close to Lolo pass, for a few laps in the trees before waking up early the next day for a drive to Bozeman to climb. A couple of Hylite routes were reportedly in great shape and after doing what we came to do and rappels to the packs, we put our headlamps on and boot skied our way back down the trail to the truck, laughing and talking smack the whole way. Drove by full moon back to Missoula, arriving home last night at 11 pm. Good times, for sure.



With a priority shift in the last few years, It's been super fun reacquainting with climbing. Climbing allows the constant opportunity (just like flying) to be humbled, to feel small and to work on character. There is no faking. When racking up for a lead, you either do it or don't. Either way and for what ever reason, the decision has consequence and at the least, allows you to learn more about yourself. Limits are absolutely created and when those borders are defined and redefined, I learn that life isn't just what I make it, it's exactly what I make it. Just starting to feel the sea legs getting steadier and the motivation with Chris as a partner is high. Life is good and constantly getting better.


Chris firing Airborne Ranger

Time to Hybernate?

The snow is dumping and the ice is forming here in Montana which spells no flying and the beginning of climbing season. I really enjoy sitting at the sewing machines, building harnesses for fellow pilots but it's nice to escape day dreams of thermalling in the sun and get the personal rewards that come from hard work in the mountains mixed in with some good old fashion suffering.



Climbing in the mountains here during winter is really special. There are absolutely no crowds and in fact, it's rare to see much of anyone after a long approach. There are lessons earned that sometimes take us to a place of understanding long forgotten, or in completely new ways because of the uncertainty of it. You don't know if the routes are formed or not, or, if a particular route is formed in a remotely similar way to what you have experienced in years past. Ice is dynamic. A moving crystal that creates a line of weakness to travel high on alpine walls which would otherwise repel us easily. Every year it's different and new. Climbing rock is fun but usually quite sequential, forcing you to do sometimes particular moves to efficiently navigate the route. Ice allows multiple lines and opens the chance to be creative and to use your imagination to discover what feels possible to you.


The flanks of Mt Edwards



Chris and I decided to go and have a look at the intimidating routes on the North Face of Mt Edwards in Glacier National Park. It was still fairly early season so we had realistic intentions and really just wanted to ski in to see what and how things were shaping up. Although, still early in terms of the "cold cycle" of our area, it was pretty late for any Grizzly bears to be out so we were a little apprehensive as we followed a big pigeon toed bastard into the circ. I kept wondering when it would turn off the trail but low and behold, we followed it for the 6 mile ski into the dead end circ we were planning to camp in. It was snowing and the claw holes were not filled in yet which meant, a couple hours max in front of us. It was pretty cool that he broke trail for us though because the further we got into the circ, the snow got pretty F*^&'n deep;-)





We ended up approaching the routes the following morning after hearing the unstable snow pack "whumphing" all night knowing that the avalanche hazard was most likely horrendous from a cold snap followed by a Chinook. After climbing 30% of the slope toward the wall, we dug a pit and confirmed that the slope was primed for wet slab avalanches so we clicked in and skied our way out.



After getting some more work done at home, my jones was far from satisfied so we post holed into the Mission mountains and climbed some local ice in full value conditions. Our friend Justin Woods met us at the trail head which made for lighter loads and a great "bro factor". Although it was not the adventure we look to find when climbing in the Park, it was really cool just to swing the tools and always great to climb with good friends.

Harnesses and harnesses

Been working hard to get this batch of harnesses out the door to psyched pilots and also working hard to continually refine and do my best to make improvements. Design is a process that keeps ideas and creativity a focus. Gotta keep up the fun factor, yea?



Apparently, wearing Matt Barkers "inner shell" on my head helps the process.


Took an afternoon off to go pull in one of the Bitteroot canyons. One of my friends from Alaska showed up with his wife, Anna, and their two kiddos, Alder and Oden. Alder came to the crag with us to keep the pup warm and scream out beta to her dad while he was climbing one of the cave routes. Snow is just starting to fall here. Ice is forming;-)

Jonathan's Covert

One of the harnesses that went out from the last group we built is being flown by Jonathan Dietch. He has been gracious enough to send me a few stills and a video from his first flight in the Covert.

This shot is fuzzy from being cropped but shows the clean shape of this version

You can tell a lot in the video. When he points his toes (as we all do sometimes), the top of the harness, just above the boot, gets loose. When it's tight is when he's relaxed.

res ipsa liquitor

What a mission! Yesterday, I had a great time taking a stiff look in the mirror of perspective. I love the combination of loosing time in thought while exercising. Running in the mountains is a form of meditation where I can formulate design solutions, introspect, visualize flying strategy or just try to have "no mind" and allow thoughts to free flow and come and go as time does.



One of my best and oldest friends, Jim Chase, has been distance running on and off most of his life. Over the years we have worked together, climbed together, hunted Elk with long bows in the mountains of Montana together, flown together (tandem) and ended up lucky enough that our kids now play together. He is soft spoken but has the fitness and toughness to make him one of the "hardest" dudes I know. He started running 50 milers in the mountains and inspired me to give it a go. Turns out that I loved training for a long event and felt the need to satisfy a curiosity so once again, it's off for an adventure with Jimmy Chase.


Just crossed the finish line. Jimmy beat me in by about 30 mins. He's a beast

The course this year was different than the past 29 years of the Le Griz Ultrathon. Normally, it takes the Western shore which makes it mellow for a 50 because of the lack of elevation gain. Road construction on the Western shore caused this to be the first year that entrants would run the Eastern shore. That side of the lake turned out to be quite hilly with an ass kicker up into the woods at mile 40. I felt great until mile 22, felt like shit from 25-35 and then thought I was getting a second wind, finding a good rhythm. At mile 40, we turned a switchback and started up hill for what seemed like forever. I was able to recover on the way back down the pass but when I got to the finish at mile 43, I was pretty worked. We ran past the finish, down through the traditional "bushwhack" (a 100 yrd push through the woods) to a paved road. From there, we had a little more than 3 miles to climb up pavement to the Hungry Horse Dam which we ran across and back to the finish. The concrete seemed to jar every muscle and bone in my tired body but in the end, I survived, no dramas.


Got to bring home a souvenir for my kiddo

It was a great experience and although I am hobbling around the house today, am already looking forward to another adventure in the mountains. There is still a lot to learn......always


The 50 mile mountain run pedicure. Wouldn't know the light without the dark;-)

keep your head above water, but don't forget to breath

I returned from AZ ready to spend some time in the shop. First task was to finish up a batch of Covert comp harnesses for some good pilots and friends. Always cool for me to work on gear that, sooner than later, I will get to see in the air.


Here are a couple of shots of Katie O'Riordan launching and flying in her new Covert while at the British Nationals in Laragne, France.


One is going to Italy for my friend, Franco, 3 going down under to the Aussie boys, Dave, Nick and Flocky and 2 to pilots Jonathan Deitch and Davis Straub here in the States.


We spent some late nights and had some shipping challenges to work through but all are on their way and look SWEET!!



Can't wait to hear how they feel about flying in them. Jonathan and Franco both got 1 chute versions and I put an O2 sheath in Jonathan's for those high, Owens and King Mountain adventures.



Started sewing on the next batch of harnesses which will include a couple of unique color combos that should look super sharp. I will post when they are cut.



Meanwhile, as the title of this post points out, even though I love what I do for a living, sometimes it's good to go kick my own arse just to remind me how good I really have it. I love to trail run into the mountains and sometimes loose all sense of time spending hours day dreaming about flying, climbing or design while ticking off the miles and getting far above Missoula. I have been quietly training for a long one that happens to be coming up. Next weekend, on the 9th, I am going to run the LeGriz Ultrathon close to Glacier park. The course is pretty mellow in relation to other 50 milers in the mountains and will take us along the scenic shoreline of Hungry Horse Reservoir through bear and goat country. Should be a good stress release, should be a good chance to learn more about myself but one thing is certain....it should be an ass kicker.


31 mile mark. Photo taken by Le Griz staff in 2002